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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.