Following Poachers That Illegally Capture China's Protected Songbirds.
The conservationist's gaze sweeps across miles of dense fields, searching for any movement in the pre-dawn darkness.
He utters a muted voice as the team seeks a spot to hide in the open area. In the distance, the vast metropolis of Beijing remains asleep. As we wait, the only sound is the quiet of the morning.
Suddenly, as the sky begins to brighten before dawn, there is the crunch of footsteps. The poachers are here.
Trapped
Overhead, a multitude of winged travelers, many so small that they can fit in the cup of a hand, are migrating south for winter.
They have taken advantage of the long summer days in Siberia, or Mongolia, consuming insects and fruit. As the year comes to a close and icy winds bring the first frosts of winter, they journey to more temperate climates to breed and eat.
There are 1500-plus bird species, representing roughly 13% of the global population – over eight hundred of those are migratory birds. Several of the major flyways they follow intersect in China.
This particular field in question, on the outskirts of the Chinese capital, is an oasis for small birds – any further and the city skies offer little opportunity to rest among forests of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "mist nets", so fine you can almost miss them.
The one we nearly walked into was stretched across a large section of the field and held up with bamboo poles. In the middle, a tiny bird was fighting hard to escape, but the more it struggled, the more its feet got ensnared.
This was a protected songbird, a protected bird in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – that means if its population is healthy, so is its habitat.
Hunting the Hunters
The conservationist, in his thirties, does this work for free using his personal funds. He has sacrificed many sleeping hours to rescue birds, and he has spent the last 10 years convincing the police in Beijing to enforce the law.
"Initially, there was little interest," he says.
So he recruited volunteers who did care and launched a group known as the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He held public meetings and brought in the leaders of the local police and forestry bureau. These consistent and determined acts of persuasion seem to have paid off. The police realized that apprehending illegal hunters also led to tracking down other kinds of illegal operations.
"It became clear our goals were somewhat shared," Silva says, adding the caveat that enforcement is still patchy.
His passion for avian life started in childhood. He grew up in the nineties in a very different Beijing.
He recalls roaming through the grasslands on the city's edges where he discovered birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, the transformation was dramatic."
Industrialization brought millions of rural workers to cities. This expansion meant grasslands were considered empty places to build, not sanctuaries to conserve.
The transformation was alarming. The grasslands began to shrink, as did the ecosystems they sustained.
"I decided back then to pursue environmental protection and I took this path," he says.
This has not made for an easy life. One of Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was being investigated by Silva and fought back.
"He gathered several of his accomplices who surrounded me and beat me up," Silva recalls. He says he reported to the police but the perpetrators were not held accountable.
He has also seen the departure of his army of volunteers over the years. This work demands covert operations and lost sleep. Silva says few people are willing to take on the difficult – and sometimes dangerous job.
"I do this full-time," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to solve this big problem, you must commit completely. You can't do it part-time."
He says donations covers some of the costs – more than 100,000 yuan a year – but support has waned because of the slowing economy.
So he has developed new ways to hunt the hunters.
He studies satellite imagery to find the trails created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The satellite images can even show lines of net traps which can catch hundreds of small birds during darkness.
"Certain prized species sell for a high price," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now often affluent."
While there are wildlife laws in place, Silva believes the fines to punish the crime do not outweigh the financial benefits of trapping and trading songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some people in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This dates back to the Qing dynasty. Wealthy individuals would build ornate bamboo cages for their birds.
This custom that persists mainly among older individuals in their later years. Silva says some elderly citizens don't realise they are breaking the law, or understand that numerous birds were killed in a trap so they could buy a pet.
"These individuals often lacked enough to eat growing up. Now with a little money, they have inherited the habit and custom of keeping birds in cages," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was no time to educate people about ecology. Once adults' values are set, they're really hard to change."
Apprehended
On a long low wall in Beijing, a vendor has several small cages with chirping songbirds.
A separate individual is positioned near a nearby market holding a bird cage covered by a dark cloth. He informs passers-by quietly that his songbird is valuable, worth about 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an traditional side of the city where small unofficial traders have created their own market.
The area alongside the water extends over several miles and on a typical day, there were shoppers browsing everything from vintage jewellery to dentures.
Information suggested that protected birds could be bought in a small park. The location was not concealed.
Music was blasting from a speaker in a shaded area where a group of elderly ladies were choreographing a fan dance. Nearby several men, all in their later years, had congregated with bird cages – some had two or three in their hands. Most were concealed by black fabric.
But today there would be no transactions because the police had arrived. They were interviewing the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his