The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.
An unexpected discovery on the London Underground in 1988 altered the path of a teenage Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the capital's buzzing 1990s creative scene, evolving from mannequin to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.
"It was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that rawness."
If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is far from alone. Lately, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. Yet in the intervening decades, Enninful perceives a significant change. "In my view, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s a global phenomenon."
A Cultural Backslide
This shift is difficult to overlook: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the reaction against social awareness, and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the previous decade, now a different political personality stands as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.
For Enninful, the antidote has long been to promote culture in all its diversity. This was the guiding principle behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, including a diverse array of influential figures from politics.
"People with a voice should employ it," he comments, discussing those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I believe this period will pass."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He draws solace in the younger generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about systemic issues – I had no concept what that was."
His formative years would forge a trailblazing career marked by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Importantly, sales rose.
"Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he emphasises.
A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'
He has established his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "change-maker".
"My nature is to challenge the status quo. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I found myself on the margins. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being between worlds."
In contrast to the stereotype of fashion editors as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His path has included its share of hardship, including publicly shared struggles with mental health and substance use.
He has also faced significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to impaired eyesight. "I endured such a time of fear for two years, not working, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."
The Tate Britain Exhibition
This determination to be typecast has inspired him outside the world that established him. He is now organising a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a group of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who lacked a spotlight at the time.
"The establishment didn't always promote the right artists because they weren't of the expected background," he observes.
This venture itself uses a unique strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is part of a broader vision."
An Unstoppable Drive
Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful industry leaders. His path, he feels, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.
What would the younger Edward react to the man he has become? He smiles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. In those days I was anti-establishment. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He adds. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have underestimated me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."
